Once the tapered wheel bearing are removed, you'll have to remove the races that remain inside the wheel hub. The green arrow shows the race for the larger rear bearing while the purple arrow shows the race for the smaller front bearing To remove the outer bearing race, you will need to use a drift, or in our case a 30mm socket will fit inside the bore. This helps to apply an even force to all sides of the race.
Once the tapered wheel bearing are removed, you'll have to remove the races that remain inside the wheel hub. The green arrow shows the race for the larger rear bearing while the purple arrow shows the race for the smaller front bearing To remove the outer bearing race, you will need to use a drift, or in our case a 30mm socket will fit inside the bore. This helps to apply an even force to all sides of the race. Use a hammer to pound the race out of the hub. This will take a fair amount of force to drive out and is probably the hardest part of the job. For the larger race on the opposite side, you'll have to use a smaller socket and hit the edge of the race at an angle. It helps to hit the race around the diameter of the edge to drive it out evenly. Take care not to damage or scratch the inside bore of the wheel hub. Just take your time and keep at it.
Once both races are removed, clean the inside of the wheel hub and look for any wear on the inside. Like the spindle, if there are deep grooves on the inside or pitting, replace the hub. Take the new inner bearing race and place it in the bore on the rear of the hub. You£l want to position the tapered section to accept the bearing. Make sure that you have the orientation correct before you begin to install the race.
Now drive the bearing race into the hub until it seats against the bottom flange of the hub. Typically, you would want to use a drift, however I found that a ball joint socket for a Porsche 911 is the same diameter as the race. Take your time and make sure that the race goes in straight. It's very easy to cock the race in the bore.
Before installing the bearing into the wheel hub, it's necessary to pack it with grease. The idea here is to fill all the open spaces of the needle bearings with grease. This will evenly distribute the grease throughout the bearing. There are a couple different ways of doing this. You can buy a wheel bearing packer, which uses pressure to push the grease in, or rotate the bearing back and forth while pushing grease in. It's a good idea to apply the grease a bit on the heavy side.
Be sure to also put a coat of grease on the face of the bearing race. Once the bearing is packed, drop it in place on the hub. It's not a bad idea to hold the inner part of the needle bearing and then turn the hub to distribute more grease thru the bearing. Clean up any grease that may have gotten on the outer surface of the hub where the oil seal fits and center the seal in the bore. Carefully tap the oil seal into place using a flat piece of metal or wood to ensure the seal does not get cocked in the bore on the wheel hub. Keep tapping the seal until it bottoms out in the bore.
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How to Change the Sway bar bushing and sway bar endlink on new beetle (1)
The sway bar (sometimes called anti roll bar) connects the left and right suspension to the front subframe. There are bushings on the middle and ends (end links). Your VW TDI only has a sway bar in the front, there is no sway bar in the rear because it's a torsion beam suspension.
How to Change the Sway Bar Bushing and Sway Bar Endlink on New Beetle (2)
Raise the front end of the car, chock the rear wheels, remove the front wheels, rest the car on jack stands, and make sure the car is safe and secure before getting underneath at all, see the TOS Agreement for the legal disclaimer.
The Working Principle of Independent Front Suspension (4)
Overall, with the vast plethora of Mustang II-style IFS kits ranging from basic budget setups to fully polished showpieces on the market today, there is very little reason to go with a used Camaro front clip.
