Suzani means "needlework" - originating from the Persian word "Suzan", which means "needle". It refers to traditional hand-stitched textiles that has ...
Suzani means "needlework" - originating from the Persian word "Suzan",
which means "needle". It refers to traditional hand-stitched textiles that has been produced by Asian women in tribes since the nineteenth century. Suzani embroidery is produced in Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and other Central Asia countries. Uzbek mothers would teach the skill of embroidery to their daughters thus perpetuating the traditon from generation to generation.
Before working on a Suzani the "kalamkash" (Suzani designers) draw out the design onto one (or often more) strips of the cotton, silk or velvet base fabric. Once the plan is made the work is divided up into strips so one or more workers can perform the rich embroidery required. The tool used for embroidery is a hooked needle called a tambour and hours of chain stitching produces the wonderful results. The materials used for embroidery are cotton and silk but they are dyed in a pot to give them lively colors and "stand out" from the base. Once all of the work is complete then the strips are carefully sewn together into one large sheet.
Being a "team effort (often a family affair) the production of Suzanis are part of the Asian culture, tradionally given as gifts and used for decorating homes. To receive a Suzani rug was an honor as they used to take a long time to produce. Suzanis would also be traded, available in the village markets and typically served as wall tapestries, table covers and prayer mats. Each Suzani was a "labor of love" that has been produced by mothevrs and daughters.
Suzani textiles were first produced in the area of Nurata in the nineteenth century with a style of using flowers spread across a white background. This developed into an industry and a tradition of embroidering flowers, birds, animals and people. The most prevalent composition has an eight-pointed star in the middle and four large aromas in the corners. This composition is named chor shokhuyak mokh, meaning "four twigs and the moon".
One particularly important suzani center of production is the Uzbek city, Bukhara. Textiles of Bukhara also include spectacular, distinctive rugs and ikat fabrics, but suzanis are most important of all. A UNESCO world heritage site, Bukhara has a very long and literally colorful history.
However the Berlin wall fell and this region became more accessible to Western trade, allowing Suzani textiles to become the phenonenon they are today, boosting the demand and production of this embroidergrey. To meet the demand Suzanis are still being produced in a traditional manner by Uzbek women. However modern factories and workshops are pumping out contemporary Suzanis in much greater quantities. You could say that the trade of Suzanis from East to West is the re-opening of part of the ancient Silk Road.
As Central Asia is modernizing these textiles are produced under a much wider range of circumstances than before: now in cities and factories as well as traditionally in homes by mothers and daughters. Modern interpretations of suzanis incorporate a wider blend of colors than they used to, often using softer, more pastel tones than before. The older hand-made Suzanis are preferred over the more contemporary ones because they are more interesting - you can see where they are handmade, with more inconsistencies than those produced in a factory or workshop.
Nowdays all kinds of products are being fabricated out of Suzani textile: throws, pillows, tablecloths, shoes, boots, jackets and belts to name just a few.
Suzani boots are produced from either lambs leather or harder cows leather melded to the fabric. Usually several pairs of boots are produced out of a sheet of Suzani textile. They can be flat, heeled, calf length, or high top and in a vast range of sizes.