In the remote town of Haines, Alaska, adventurers find themselves amidst a landscape of awe-inspiring mountains and untamed wilderness. This region, sculpted by the forces of glaciers, erosion, and weather, has been a silent witness to millennia, with snowflakes gently accumulating on its peaks. For those who dare to explore, the rush of adrenaline and the call of the wild beckon them back to these majestic heights time and again.
In late April, a group of Montanans, including Jason Shutz, Bill Buchbauer, Annie Fast, Chris Ankeny, and Tom Routh, set out to experience the rugged beauty of Haines, Alaska. Known for its appeal to ski and snowboard film crews, Haines still boasts vast expanses of untouched wilderness accessible only by glacier plane and split board. Equipped with their split boards, mountaineering gear, and winter camping supplies, the group embarked on an affordable backcountry adventure, taking advantage of the Cessna ski planes to reach their destination.
During the first two weeks of April, the team enjoyed numerous sunny days on the glaciers, carving new paths with their split boards and scouting potential lines for future expeditions. The thrill of the adventure was palpable, as they stood on the precipice of nature's grandeur, ready to descend into the embrace of the Alaskan wild.
Upon arriving in Haines via a single-engine Cessna, the vastness of Alaska's natural beauty becomes immediately apparent. Haines is situated at the northern end of the Inside Passage and the head of America's longest fjord. It is bordered by 20 million acres of protected wilderness, including Glacier Bay National Park just 25 miles away by air, and the nearby Canadian parks of Kluane National Park and Tatshenshini-Alsek Provincial Park. Additionally, a Bald Eagle Preserve lies just outside the town, adding to the region's dramatic scenery and abundant wildlife.
However, the weather in Alaska can be as unpredictable as it is breathtaking. The second day of the trip greeted the adventurers with the all-too-familiar Alaskan rain, prompting a day of rest and recovery from their recent backcountry journey. As they shared tales of their exploits and close encounters with the unpredictable snowpack and treacherous glacier landings, the group's anticipation for the next clear day grew.
The relentless rain continued for eight days, testing the resolve of the adventurers. With limited indoor activities such as pool, darts, and board games to pass the time, the confinement began to take its toll. Cabin fever, a common affliction in such conditions, started to manifest in peculiar ways. Desperate for a reprieve, the group braved the rain, only to find themselves returning to the comfort of their shelter, their appetites seemingly insatiable as they awaited a break in the weather.
As the possibility of clear skies loomed on the horizon, discussions turned to alternative plans, including the prospect of heli-skiing. Unlike ski planes, which require clear conditions for safe landings, helicopters offer greater flexibility, not needing a runway for takeoff and landing. However, with only one helicopter in operation and multiple groups vying for a chance to hit the slopes, the competition was fierce.
Finally, after nine days of waiting and hoping, the sun broke through the clouds. The group seized the opportunity and headed to the heliport for their last chance to experience the Alaskan backcountry. Despite being lower on the priority list, they managed to secure two late-afternoon runs with their guide, Jim. The runs, though short by Alaskan standards, were monumental experiences, with fresh, light snow providing the perfect conditions for an unforgettable descent.
As the day came to a close, the group hurried to catch the ferry to Juneau, their minds already wandering back to the peaks they had left behind. The journey home was filled with reflections on the adventure and dreams of future escapades in the Alaskan wilderness.
Alaska's vast landscapes offer endless opportunities for adventure, and one need not be wealthy to enjoy its high, powdery peaks. With solid backcountry knowledge, glacial travel experience, and familiarity with the local terrain, even small groups can experience the thrill of the wilderness. For instance, Drake Olson's Earth Center Adventures (907-723-9475) can accommodate three passengers at a time on glacier plane trips, with roundtrip costs averaging around $300 per person, depending on the distance traveled into the mountains. Once there, explorers can traverse the terrain via split board for the day or set up camp for an extended stay, always mindful of the quick onset of tent fever compared to cabin fever.
Haines, Alaska, stands as a testament to the enduring call of the wild, a place where the spirit of adventure thrives amidst the grandeur of nature. It is a land that challenges the body, invigorates the soul, and offers a profound sense of freedom to those who venture into its embrace.
