This article will tell you how I replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders on my car. Neither I nor Audi World assume any responsibility for accuracy or applicability to your situation. Read these instructions carefully and take a close look at an Audi repair manual before attempting this job on your own car. Be sure to get proper torque figures and use a torque wrench to tighten nuts and bolts.
This article will tell you how I replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders on my car. Neither I nor Audi World assume any responsibility for accuracy or applicability to your situation. Read these instructions carefully and take a close look at an Audi repair manual before attempting this job on your own car. Be sure to get proper torque figures and use a torque wrench to tighten nuts and bolts. The parts you are about to replace are plastic and will deform if not installed with some care. Follow all appropriate safety practices and remember that brake fluid is poisonous and should be disposed of appropriately.
With 99,000 miles on my '98 A4, in very hot weather (>100 degrees F.), occasionally my clutch pedal would not return after being depressed. I was always able to pull the pedal back up with the tip of my foot, but this was becoming more frequent and happened at bad times. It was not immediately clear if the cause of the problem was the master or the slave, but the price of the parts suggested that both could be replaced without breaking the bank. Both parts together came to about $160 and were delivered to my door without fuss from one of the many parts houses you can now find on-line. (I used bestforeignparts.com, not the cheapest, but they include free shipping.)
This job will require:
Metric socket set
6mm ball head Allen wrench (important!)
Small long flat blade screwdriver
Medium flat blade screwdriver
Torque wrench
New DOT 4 brake fluid in sealed container (1 small can will do)
The job is pretty straightforward with no surprises. If you've ever replaced a brake or clutch master or slave on an older car you'll be pleasantly surprised. If you've never worked on a car before, get someone to look over your shoulder and teach you how. This is too nice a car to screw up!
Preparation for Master Cylinder Removal
Remove the knee bolster / cover under the steering wheel. You'll find that there are 4 screws total holding it up. One is under the fuse cover (between the driver's side door and the dash) at the bottom as you face the fuse panel. Just pry off the fuse panel cover gently with your fingers; no tools required. The four screws that hold up the bolster have 8mm heads.
Next carefully pry out the two plastic covers that conceal one screw each. Remove them and work your way to the bottom right where you'll find one more screw. The knee bolster will now come clear except for 2 sets of connectors. One is the under dash footlight and the other is the socket for the diagnostic connector. Carefully pry the two clips from the light and unplug it. The diagnostic connector has a little prong which you gently depress to pull the connector out. Remove the knee bolster and set is aside in a clean safe place. The Audi factory service manual says to remove the engine ECU to gain access to the hydraulic lines which I did, but I don't believe it's really required. I'd be interested to know if the mechanics at the dealerships really do this. If you choose to remove the ECU, disconnect the negative battery connection, but be sure you have the radio code first.
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