Fashion A Manifestation Of Style In Time

What came first the chicken or the egg? Fashion is the second creation, style is the first. Fashion is born out of style, as individuals we create our own style each time we go to the wardrobe and put a collection of clothes together.

Styles that came into the fashion cycle in the 70’s are coming back and deemed original, but even in their 70’s heyday, e.g. the big checks owe their origin to Scottish tartan.

So the check style has been in and out of the cycle ever since it was first considered fashionable.

And if we look more closely at the styles that have been constant over many decades, or even centuries they were developed with function in mind. Protective against the elements.

Take note of how Thomas Burberry came up with the idea of a trench coat.

Thomas Burberry Noticing how local shepherds and farmers wore linen smocks, which were cool in summer and warm in the winter, he attempted to apply the same principles to other clothing.

In 1879 he developed a fabric which was weatherproofed in the yarn before weaving, using a secret process and then proofed again in the piece, using the same undisclosed formula. The new material was untearable and weatherproof, whilst cool and breathable. He called the cloth ‘gabardine’ and registered the word as a trademark.

It became the choice mackintosh for British officers during the Trench War in Europe, hence the name Trench Coat. It remains true to original form apart from some colour additions.

Then came cufflinks, in any metal you like, there’s enough history in these little gems to write a dozen books. They dropped out of fashion for about ten years and then came back in the 80’s and now ever stronger and moving to classical style. It looks like they’re going to be around for at least the next ten years, hopefully. Now we see men’s jewellery evolving, the name to watch Vivienne Westwood.

Did you ever consider where the dark suit originated? Not Italy, Not Germany, Not France. The outcome of a rebellious young man who just decided to create his own style and not be influenced by his peers.

Brummell rejected 18th century frills (dandy man). His mandate, a dark blue coat, buff-coloured pantaloons and waistcoat, black boots and a clean white neck cloth, survives today asthedark business suit, white shirt and silk tie

Bell bottomed trousers were another 'icon' of the square rig uniform. These were practical garments for men who worked sailing ships since they could be rolled up securely to clear the feet and ankles when working the rigging.

In common with all other items of a sailor's kit, trousers were kept folded ready for use in a kit bag. Kept inside out to avoid fluff on the outer surface and to avoid 'shine' by ironing, they were folded horizontally at about a hand's width and taped into a rectangular 'block'. When worn, this produced inverted vertical creases down the side of the leg and five or seven, depending on the height of the wearer, horizontal creases down the leg.

In time these were accepted as the thing to have and were pressed firmly into place from the early years of the century. Since the First World War bell bottoms were purchased for tradition rather than any practical use but were replaced by flared trousers in 1977.

And the style keeps coming back.