Sewing a Hem - Step by Step on How to Go About Sewing a Roll Hem

Hello readers! For all of you just learning how to sew, I would like to teach you how to start sewing a hem, and in particular, how to start sewing a roll hem.

Roll hems are one of the easiest hems to do on a garment. They can be used for hems on sleeves, skirts, pants, jeans, blouses, dress shirts, you name it and I'll tell you that it probably can have a roll hem.

Of course, it is not a shoe that fits every foot. Every type of garment does not look its best with roll hems. But because of skill level, with it being the easiest, you can knock out a roll hem in no time, as sort of a substitute for another type of hem.

For this how-to, you'll need:
1)Threaded-Sewing machine
2)Serger (for raw edges on garment),or
3)Sewing machine with zig-zag stitch

Note: A serger is not required but is recommended. I use a four-thread serger when serging my raw edges and for sewing a hem because it provides a more sturdy edge when you're turning the edge up. A machine with a zig-zag stitch would be the next best thing. Read on to find out what to do when sewing a hem without a zig-zag stitch or a serger.

Serger Method
By far the easiest method and the most neat when sewing a hem. It is my personal favorite because it gives you an inside finish that is one of the methods that mass produced clothing uses.

1)Take your serger and clean finish the edge (serge it).
2) Make sure you knot your serger thread close to where you stopped stitching to keep it from unraveling in the future should you come across that situation.
3) Here's the easy part. Take your edge and fold it up once or twice (basically rolling it). If you just fold it up once, you'll still be able to see the serging when you look on the inside of the garment. For thicker fabrics, this would be the best way to go because folding it twice will increase unnecessary bulk along your hemline. If you fold it up twice, you won't be able to see the serging on either side of the garment, but this technique is better for lighter fabrics like thin shirting fabrics.
4) Stitch with the garment inside out, making sure to stitch as close to the rolled edge that's near the inside of the garment. You're finished!
5) Step five isn't really apart of these steps. I would like to mention that some sergers have a way to automatically sew in a roll hem, which is good for flimsier fabrics like chiffon, but doesn't give quite the same affect as a roll hem that you do yourself.

Zig-Zag Stitch Method
The second best method in my opinion only because the edge doesn't look as nice and professional as a serged edge. But sometimes you have to settle until you can do better.

1)Put your sewing machine on zig-zag stitch with about medium spacing or stitch length so it will hold the edge in place against a small amount of fraying but won't necessarily be a satin edge (stitching a zig-zag or serger stitch so close together you don't see the fabric underneath the stitch).
2)Zig Zag the edge.
3)Go back up to the previous section, Serger Method, and read step 3 & 4 for the final steps.

No Serger or Zig-Zag Stitch Method
If you don't have any of this, serger or zig-zag stitch, I would suggest:

1)Sew a stay stitch (a stitch that you won't remove later)or a basting stitch (a stitch you can remove later)of one inch up from the hem edge.
2)Fold the fabric up so the edge meets the stitch you made and
3)Then fold the fabric on the stitch you made so that the raw edge is folded inside!
4)Stitch with the garment inside out, making sure to stitch as close to the rolled edge that's near the inside of the garment. You're finished!

That will keep you from having to serge or zig-zag the edge. The only difference is that with this way, you'll have a stitch line on the bottom edge of your hem. This won't be noticeable if you stitched in a color that matched the fabric.If you used the basting stitch instead of the stay stitch, it shouldn't be difficult to remove.

Now, as always, be proud of what you've accomplished! Go out and show people what you've done! This is something that not a lot of people just know how to do. Have fun with your new skill!