The Time-Honored Tradition of Port Wine

A Brief History of Port Wine

The Douro Valley, recognized as the third oldest protected wine region globally, has been producing Port wine since the establishment of the 'General Company of Viticulture of the Upper Douro' in 1756. This organization was pivotal in maintaining the quality and pricing standards of Port wine. The English, after signing the 'Methuen Treaty' in 1703, which facilitated the import of Portuguese wine, became enamored with Port. To prevent spoilage during sea voyages, the wine was fortified, inadvertently creating the robust and long-lasting beverage we know today. This practice became particularly important during England's conflicts with France, as it necessitated an alternative to French wines.

Today, some of the most renowned Port wine shippers, such as Sandeman, Cockburn, Osborne, and Croft, continue to thrive, a testament to the enduring legacy of this beverage. According to the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto (IVDP), as of 2021, there are over 80 shippers of Port wine, each with its unique history and contribution to the industry.

The Rituals of Port Wine Consumption

Drinking Port is not just about enjoying a glass of wine; it is an experience governed by tradition and etiquette. In the British Navy, for instance, it was customary to pass the Port from left to right, or "port to port." The host would pour for the guest on their right and then pass the bottle to the left, ensuring each person at the table received their share. However, should the bottle stall with a guest, it was considered impolite to ask for it directly. Instead, one would inquire if the guest knew the Bishop of Norwich, a subtle hint to pass the bottle along. If the guest was unfamiliar with the tradition, the host would explain, "He's an awfully nice fellow, but he never remembers to pass the Port."

To circumvent this issue, the Hoggett Decanter was introduced. Its rounded bottom prevents it from standing on the table, thus encouraging continuous passing until it returns to the host's specially designed stand, 'The Hoggett.' It is also a British tradition to remain seated until the entire bottle is finished.

The Diversity of Port Wine

Port wine comes in various styles, each with its distinct characteristics:

• Tawny Port: Aged in wooden barrels, Tawny Port acquires a golden-brown color and is often savored as a dessert wine.
• Pink Port: Introduced more recently, Pink Port is made with the same grapes as Tawny and Ruby Ports but with less contact with grape skins, resulting in a lighter, fruitier wine usually served chilled.
• White Port: Made from white grapes, White Port ranges from dry to very sweet and can be enjoyed on its own or as a cocktail base.
• Late Bottled Vintage Port: Initially intended as vintage, these Ports are bottled after four to six years in the barrel, offering a lighter alternative. The term 'Late Bottled Vintage' was coined in 1969 by Taylor, Fladgate, and Yeatman.
• Vintage Port: Representing only two percent of production, Vintage Port is the pride of Portugal. Not every year is declared a vintage; only when conditions are optimal is the wine certified, typically in the spring of the second year after harvest.

According to the IVDP, the total area of vineyards in the Douro region is approximately 46,000 hectares, with Vintage Port production strictly regulated to maintain its high quality.

The Resilience of Port Wine

The Douro Valley's vineyards once faced near devastation due to grape mildew, requiring the importation of American rootstock to rejuvenate the region. This crisis underscored the fragility of wine production and the importance of innovation and resilience in the face of agricultural challenges.

Port wine's rich history, diverse styles, and the etiquette surrounding its consumption make it a fascinating subject for wine enthusiasts and historians alike. As of 2021, Portugal exported approximately 77 million liters of Port wine, with the UK, France, and the Netherlands being the top importers, highlighting the global appreciation for this storied beverage.

For more information on Port wine and its traditions, visit the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto or explore the offerings of historic shippers like Sandeman and Taylor, Fladgate, and Yeatman.