Paris, a city synonymous with culture and sophistication, is also a haven for those who revel in the convivial atmosphere of bars, wine bars, cafés, bistros, and restaurants. Amidst the modern establishments, history whispers through the walls of the oldest drinking venues in the city. But which one holds the title of the most ancient?
As we stroll down rue Mazarine from the Odéon square, we encounter Le Procope, proudly bearing a plaque that declares it "the oldest café in the world." Established in 1686, Le Procope initially served coffee, a beverage that had recently made its way to France from Austria, where the Viennese had adopted it from the Turks around 1623 during a break in the Ottoman siege of Vienna.
Le Procope quickly became a hub for the actors of the Comédie Française, the national theater company located nearby. As the 18th century approached, it also attracted Encyclopaedists like Diderot and D'Alembert, along with other freethinkers who, under the reign of Louis XV, had to be cautious about their public discussions.
One anecdote involving Voltaire illustrates the café's intellectual atmosphere. Voltaire and his contemporaries used the code "Monsieur Néant" (Mr. Nothing) to discuss the existence of God without drawing unwanted attention. When an inquisitive gentleman asked about this mysterious figure, he was quickly told that "Monsieur Néant" was a police spy, a witty retort that underscored the need for discretion during those times.
However, the claim of Le Procope being the first café in the world is contested. Its founder, Mr. Procope, born Procoppio dei Cotelli in Palermo, had worked at another Parisian café before opening his own. Thus, while it may not be the first, it is certainly one of the earliest that still operates today.
Our search for the oldest bar leads us to Ile St-Louis, an island on the Seine River developed primarily between 1613 and 1700. Here we find Les Anysetiers du Roy and Le Franc-Pinot, both 17th-century establishments that rival Le Procope in age and have been serving patrons for centuries.
Yet, the notion that Paris lacked taverns before the 17th century is inconceivable. The 15th-century poet François Villon dedicated his works to "taverns and girls," and a 1457 listing of taverners includes 200 full-time professionals and another hundred part-timers.
One notable tavern from that era was the Pomme de Pin (Pinecone), located on Ile de la Cité. It endured until the mid-1800s when it was demolished during the renovations led by Paris Prefect Haussmann to expand the Hôtel Dieu hospital next to Notre Dame Cathedral. For more on this historical transformation, visit Paris Eiffel Tower News and search for the story on Hôtel Dieu hospital.
Further research on Ile de la Cité, particularly along the quaint rue de la Colombe, reveals the Réserve de Quasimodo. This wine shop and eatery, housed in what is claimed to be the oldest house in Paris, offers traditional French fare and wines supplied by vintners. It also hosts supper shows featuring oral storytelling, magicians, and theater groups. The Réserve de Quasimodo's history as a wine bar dates back to at least 1869, as evidenced by a photograph from that year.
Rewinding to around 1719, we encounter a legend involving the infamous pickpocket gang leader Cartouche, who frequented the St Nicolas Tavern, the predecessor of today's Réserve de Quasimodo. According to the tale, Cartouche prevented a well-dressed gentleman from committing suicide on the Pont-Neuf bridge, only to later trick the man's creditors and rob them with his gang.
Despite the rich history of Le Procope and other venerable establishments, the St. Nicholas Tavern, once located at No. 4 rue de la Colombe, predates them all. Named after the patron saint whose statue replaced a pagan figure, the tavern's existence is documented as far back as 1240, making it the oldest known tavern in Paris.
In the quest to uncover the oldest bar in Paris, the St. Nicholas Tavern emerges as the clear victor, a testament to the city's enduring love affair with social gathering places that have stood the test of time.
(article written in collaboration with Arthur Gillette)
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