Jewelry of the Victorian Era

Summary

The Victorian era, from 1837 to 1901, was a transformative period for jewelry design, characterized by intricate craftsmanship and diverse materials. This article explores the three distinct phases of Victorian jewelry, highlighting key designers, popular motifs, and the influence of Queen Victoria herself. From the Gothic-inspired pieces of the early period to the nature-themed designs of the mid and late periods, Victorian jewelry remains a testament to the era's artistic and cultural richness.

The Three Phases of Victorian Jewelry

Early Victorian (1837-1860)

The early Victorian period, also known as the Romantic period, was heavily influenced by the personal tastes of Queen Victoria and her love for her husband, Prince Albert. This era saw the rise of jewelers like Robert Phillips and Augustus Pugin, who favored a Gothic Revival style.

Key Characteristics:

• Gothic Revival: Inspired by medieval designs, featuring intricate patterns and religious motifs.
• Nature-Inspired Designs: Jewelry often depicted flowers, leaves, and serpents, symbolizing eternal love and wisdom.
• Materials: Coral, ivory, jet, and topaz were popular, along with cameos, which Queen Victoria adored.

Notable Pieces:

• Snake Motif Jewelry: Queen Victoria's engagement ring was a serpent, symbolizing eternal love.
• Cameos: These carved pieces were often set in brooches and necklaces, reflecting classical themes.

Mid-Victorian (1860-1885)

The mid-Victorian period, or the Grand period, was marked by somber and elaborate designs, influenced by the death of Prince Albert in 1861. Queen Victoria's prolonged mourning had a significant impact on jewelry trends.

Key Characteristics:

• Mourning Jewelry: Jet, a fossilized wood, became the material of choice for mourning pieces.
• Innovative Designs: Jewelers like Morel and Company created versatile pieces, such as a diamond and ruby ornament that could be separated into individual brooches.
• Exotic Influences: Scottish, Celtic, and Oriental themes became popular, reflecting the British Empire's global reach.

Notable Pieces:

• Jet Jewelry: Widely worn by Queen Victoria and her court, symbolizing mourning and remembrance.
• Sporting Jewelry: Brooches and pins featuring motifs like tennis rackets and horses, often adorned with diamonds and pearls.

Late Victorian (1885-1901)

The late Victorian period, also known as the Aesthetic period, saw a shift towards lighter and more whimsical designs. This era was influenced by the Art Nouveau movement, which began to gain popularity towards the end of Queen Victoria's reign.

Key Characteristics:

• Nature and Insects: Jewelry designs featured flowers, insects, and animals, often in vibrant colors.
• White Jewelry: Diamonds and pearls became the preferred materials, symbolizing purity and elegance.
• Parures: Sets of matching jewelry pieces, often in diamonds, became a status symbol among the wealthy.

Notable Pieces:

• Diamond and Pearl Parures: These elaborate sets were a favorite among the aristocracy.
• Art Nouveau Influences: Early examples of Art Nouveau jewelry began to appear, characterized by flowing lines and organic forms.

The Influence of Queen Victoria

Queen Victoria's personal tastes and life events had a profound impact on jewelry trends throughout her reign. Her love for Prince Albert inspired romantic and sentimental designs, while her mourning period popularized jet jewelry. The Queen's participation in events like the Great International Exhibition of 1851 showcased the finest jewelry of the era, further influencing public tastes.

Interesting Stats and Facts

• Diamond Boom: The discovery of diamonds in South Africa in the late 19th century led to a surge in diamond jewelry production. By 1900, South Africa was producing 95% of the world's diamonds (source).
• Jet Popularity: Whitby, England, became the center of jet production during the Victorian era, with over 200 workshops operating at its peak (source).
• Cameo Craze: The popularity of cameos during the Victorian era led to a significant increase in their production, with Italy becoming a major center for cameo carving (source).

Conclusion

The Victorian era was a remarkable period for jewelry design, characterized by its diversity, innovation, and the profound influence of Queen Victoria. From the romantic and Gothic-inspired pieces of the early period to the nature-themed and Art Nouveau designs of the late period, Victorian jewelry remains a testament to the era's artistic and cultural richness. Whether adorned with diamonds, jet, or cameos, these pieces continue to captivate collectors and enthusiasts alike.

By exploring the intricate details and historical context of Victorian jewelry, we gain a deeper appreciation for the craftsmanship and creativity that defined this golden age of adornment.