Drinking chocolate today is often associated with cozy winter nights and sweet indulgence, but in Georgian London, this beverage had a much more scandalous reputation.
When we think of drinking chocolate, we usually imagine a creamy, sweet drink enjoyed in the comfort of our homes. However, in 17th and 18th century London, chocolate was a far cry from the modern-day treat. It was a dark, exotic brew, often spiced with ingredients like citrus, jasmine, vanilla, cinnamon, or even Indian chili peppers. This potent concoction was the drink of choice for the elite, who gathered in exclusive chocolate houses to sip and socialize.
The story of chocolate in London begins in 1585, when the first shipment of cacao beans arrived in Europe from the New World. By the early 1600s, drinking chocolate had become a fashionable trend across the continent. In the grand estates and palaces of Europe, the elite were captivated by this novel beverage. Unlike the sweet, frothy hot chocolate we know today, the chocolate of Georgian London was a rich, dark brew, often infused with exotic spices.
Much like the coffeehouses that sprang up across London with the introduction of coffee, chocolate houses began to appear in the city. However, chocolate was a luxury item, far more expensive than coffee, and thus these establishments catered to a more exclusive clientele. The most popular chocolate houses were located in the prestigious St. James's Square, frequented by gentlemen of high society. Drinking chocolate was considered a mark of sophistication and class.
While these chocolate houses were the haunts of the elite, they were also infamous for the rowdy and often scandalous behavior that took place within their walls.
One of the most famous chocolate houses was White's, located on St. James's Street. Here, men of fortune engaged in high-stakes gambling, betting on everything from stock prices to the outcomes of battles. White's earned a reputation for reckless behavior, immortalized in William Hogarth's series of paintings, "A Rake's Progress," which depicts a man losing his fortune at the gaming tables of White's.
Two other notable chocolate houses were Ozinda's and the Cocoa Tree. These establishments were known for being gathering places for Jacobites, who plotted to overthrow the monarchy. In 1932, workmen drilling into St. James's Street discovered a secret underground tunnel between the Cocoa Tree and a Piccadilly tavern, which would have allowed Jacobites to escape to safety during the 18th century.
Today, the infamous chocolate houses of the 17th and 18th centuries no longer exist in their original form. White's has transformed into the oldest gentleman's club in London, though it no longer serves the chocolate brew of centuries past. However, the legacy of these establishments lives on through guided tours led by London historian Dr. Matthew Green, who offers a glimpse into the mischievous history of London's chocolate houses.
While today's drinking chocolate may seem innocent, its history reveals a much more complex and intriguing story. From its exotic and spicy origins to its association with high society and scandal, chocolate has evolved significantly over the centuries. Yet, it remains a beloved treat, enjoyed by people around the world.
Through centuries of history, chocolate has transformed from a luxurious and exotic beverage to a beloved treat enjoyed by many. The story of London's chocolate houses offers a fascinating glimpse into the past, revealing a world of decadence, intrigue, and indulgence.
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