Hand Tools For Working Wood

Any craftsman knows the appropriate tool for the project is vital in production a quality end product in a timely manner. Here is a tally of the tools every woodworker should consider owning:

Hand tools get their power from your muscles. They’re power tools, but not electrical power. Here is a comprehensive list of hand tools that each woodworker or cabinet maker should think about having in his store:

Claw Hammer

Let’s begin with possibly the most fundamental tool in every household – the claw hammer. The claw on one side of the head should be well counter balanced by the finish head, which should be somewhat rounded. The other kind of head is the waffle-head. Most commonly used in building, it leaves a distinctive waffle mark on the wood when the nail is driven by you. This, obviously, isn’t the proper nail for woodworking.

An ill-balanced claw hammer will wriggle in your hand, making it hard to drive nails correctly. You normally grasp a claw hammer with your hand at the rear of the grip, letting the weight of the head do most of the work. All you’ve got to do is direct the driving surface toward the right nail, saving the ones on your own hand.

The most commonly-bought claw hammer is the 20 oz. size. When pulling nails it’s not light enough to easily drive nails, but readily manipulated. If you need to pull a lot of nails while wooden handles are scenic, they may not resist the stress. Hammers with a steel handle, or even fiberglass, will be more robust. Nonetheless, these won’t absorb the vibrations from driving nails the way a hickory handle will. You’ll also have to make sure that the fiberglass and metal handles have a rubberized handle for control and comfort. If you’re going to be driving lots of nails, the wooden handled hammer will be better for reducing strain on your hand, and wrist, also.

The Utility Knife

An excellent utility knife is another asset for the woodworker. There are many different kinds, but the type that uses disposable blades is the most common. The blade retracts into the hold for security. The woodworker will use many other uses, in addition to the utility knife scribing wood or when cleaning out mortise joints.

The Chisel

An array of chisels should be part of every workbench. Chisels are not just for wood carvers. Any woodworker will want chisels to clean out tool cuts and joints. Try to find chisels made of high-alloy carbon steel or chromium- vanadium alloyed steel. Hardwood handles are best, particularly if they’ve metal caps on them. This will keep the end of the handle when you hammer on it from becoming malformed,.

You’ll desire a number of sizes in ¼” increments to at least 1½” from ¼”. The lowest chisels are best for work that is mortise. 1” and the ¾” will be greatest for door hinges, and the 1½” works good for chipping out. You can get a corner chisel that cuts a notch out of the wood with the strike of a hammer, much like a hole punch.
Most chisels are beveled on the 2 sides and on the cutting edge, but specialty chisels may only be beveled at the cutting edge. This bevel will be at 20 to 25 degrees down the length of the blade on one side, and flat on the backside. The blade will be between 4” and 7. Be sure to get chisels with a grip that fits your hand. You won’t have the ability to hold the chisel steady as you work if the grip is too small. Make sure you use a mallet or wood hammer when you work, so that you don’t ruin the head on your chisel. Then after you’ve and oil the alloy now used them, and keep track of the edge covers, keep them sharp, and they should be great for years. Get a roll, if you don’t have the edge caps. This will prevent them from getting damaged and bouncing about in your tool box drawers.

Using your chisels calls for both hands. This allows for power and control of the chisel as the wood is pared away by it. If you have a need for a little “umph” behind the chisel, collide it with the heel of the hand that is off, or hit it with a mallet. A claw hammer will damage the butt end of your chisel, eventually dividing it if you mistreat it too frequently.

You might want to use rocks rather than a grinder when you sharpen your chisel. You desire a set of stones of fine grit to hone the blades correctly. Begin with the rougher level, and ending with the finest level. You may need to moisten the rock with oil for best results. Also, remember to hone the blades away from your body.